kin。〃 He began to laugh and said； 〃Who is the Kudarkin？ I defecate on his beard。〃
No man among us knew what to do at these words； but then the Turk said； 〃Bekend〃； that is； 〃bread〃 in the language of Chwarezm。 I gave him a few sheets of bread。 He took them and said； 〃You may go further。 I take pity upon you。〃
We came to the district of the army mander whose name was Etrek ibn…al…Qatagan。 He pitched Turkish tents for us and had us stay in them。 He himself had a large establishment； servants and large dwellings。 He drove in sheep for us that we might slaughter them； and put horses at our disposal for riding。 The Turks speak of him as their best horseman； and in truth I saw one day； when he raced with us on his horse and as a goose flew over us； he strung his bow and then； guiding his horse under it； shot at the goose and brought it down。
I presented to him a suit from Merv； a pair of boots of red leather； a coat of brocade； and five coats of silk。 He accepted these with glowing words of praise。 He removed the brocade coat that he wore in order to don the garments of honor I had just given him。 Then I saw that the qurtaq which he had underneath was fraying apart and filthy； but it is their custom that no one shall remove the garment that he wears next to his body until it disintegrates。 Verily also he plucked out his entire beard and even his mustache； so that he looked like a eunuch。 And yet； as I have observed； he was their best horseman。
I believed that these fine gifts should win his friendship to us； but such was not to be。 He was a treacherous man。
One day he sent for the leaders close to him； that is； Tarhan； Yanal； and Glyz。 Tarhan was the most influential among them； he was crippled and blind and had a maimed hand。 Then he said to them： 〃These are the messengers of the King of the Arabs to the chief of the Bulgars； and I should not let them pass without taking counsel with you。〃
Then Tarhan spoke： 〃This is a matter that we have never yet seen。 Never has the ambassador of the Sultan traveled through our country since we and our ancestors have been here。 My feeling is that the Sultan is playing us a trick。 These men he really sent to the Hazars to stir them up against us。 The best is to hew these ambassadors in twain and we shall take all they have。〃
Another counselor said： 〃No； we should rather take what they have and leave them naked so that they may return thither whence they came。〃
And another said： 〃No； we have captives with the King of the Hazars； so we ought to send these men to ransom them。〃
They kept discussing these matters among themselves for seven days； while we were in a situation similar to death； until they agreed to open the road and let us pass。 We gave to Tarhan as a garment of honor two caftans from Merv and also pepper； millet； and some sheets of bread。
And we traveled forth until we came to the river Bagindi。 There we took our skin boats which had been made from camel hides； spread them out； and loaded the goods from the Turkish camels。 When each boat was full； a group of five； six； or four men sat in them。 They took birchwood branches in their hands and used them like oars and kept on rowing while the water carried the boat down and spun it around。 Finally we got across。 With regard to the horses and camels； they came swimming across。
It is absolutely necessary when crossing a river that first of all a group of warriors with weapons should be transported across before any of the caravan； in order that a vanguard be established to prevent attack by Baskirs while the main body is crossing the river。
Thus we crossed the river Bagindi； and then the river called Gam； in the same way。 Then the Odil； then the Adrn； then the Wars； then the Ahti； then the Wbna。 All these are big rivers。
Then we arrived at the Pecenegs。 These had encamped by a still lake like the sea。 They are dark brown； powerful people and the men shave their beards。 They are poor in contrast to the Oguz； for I saw men among the Oguz who possessed 10；000 horses and 100；000 sheep。 But the Pecenegs are poor； and we remained only a day with them。
Then we started out and came to the river Gayih。 This is the largest； widest； swiftest that we saw。 Verily I saw how a skin boat overturned in it； and those on it were drowned。 Many of the pany perished and a number of the camels and horses were drowned。 We crossed the river with difficulty。 Then we went a few days farther on and crossed the river Gaha； then the river Azhn； then the Bagag； then the Smur； then the Knal； then the Sub； and then the river Kiglu。 At length we arrived in the land of the Baskirs。
The Yakut manuscript contains a short description of Ibn Fadlan's stay among the Baskirs； many scholars question the authenticity of these passages。 The actual descriptions are unusually vague and tedious； consisting chiefly of lists of the chiefs and nobles encountered。 Ibn Fadlan himself suggests the Baskirs are not worth bothering with； an uncharacteristic statement from this relentlessly curious traveler。
At length we left the land of the Baskirs； and crossed the river Germsan； the river Urn； the river Urm； then the river Wtig； the river Nbasnh； then the river Gawsin。 Between the rivers that we mention； the distance is a journey of two； three； or four days in each case。
Then we came to the land of the Bulgars； which begins at the shore of the river Volga。
FIRST CONTACT WITH THE NORTHMEN
I SAW WITH MY OWN EYES HOW THE NORTHMEN3 HAD arrived with their wares； and pitched their camp along the Volga。 Never did I see a people so gigantic： they are tall as palm trees； and florid and ruddy in plexion。 They wear neither camisoles nor caftans； but the men among them wear a garment of rough cloth； which is thrown over one side； so that one hand remains free。
Every Northman carries an axe； a dagger； and a sword； and without these weapons they are never seen。 Their swords are broad； with wavy lines； and of Frankish make。 From the tip of the fingernails to the neck； each man of them is tattooed with pictures of trees； living beings； and other things。
The women carry； fastened to their breast； a little case of iron； copper； silver； or gold； according to the wealth and resources of their husbands。 Fastened to the case they wear a ring； and upon that a dagger； all attached to their breast。 About their necks they wear gold and silver chains。
They are the filthiest race that God ever created。 They do not wipe themselves after going to stool； or wash themselves after a nocturnal pollution； any more than if they were wild asses。
They e from their own country； anchor their ships in the Volga； which is a great river； and build large wooden houses on its banks。 In every such house there live ten or twenty； more or fewer。 Each man has a couch； where he sits with the beautiful girls he has for sale。 He is as likely as not to enjoy one of them while a friend looks on。 At times several of them will be thus engaged at the same moment； each in full view of the others。
Now and again； a merchant will resort to a house to purchase a girl； and find her master thus embracing her； and not giving over until he has fully had his will； in this there is thought nothing remarkable。
Every morning a slave girl es and brings a tub of water and places it before her master。 He proceeds to wash his face and hands； and then his hair； bing it over the vessel。 Thereupon he blows his nose； and spits into the tub； and； leaving no dirt behind； conveys it all into this water。 When he has finished； the girl carries the tub to the man next to him； who does the same。 Thus she continues carrying the tub from one to another； till each of those who are in the house has blown his nose and spit into the tub； and washed his face and hair。
This is the normal way of things among the Northmen； as I have seen with my own eyes。 Yet at the period of our arrival among them； there was some discontent among the giant people； the nature of which was thus：
Their principal chieftain； a man of the name Wyglif； had fallen ill； and was set up in a sick…tent at a distance from the camp； with bread and water。 No one approached or spoke to him； or visited him the whole time。 No slaves nurtu